Travelbeat
Editorial Review
Lest We Forget:
Battlefield Tours
Story by Kerry Hennigan
Here in Australia, Anzac Day and Remembrance Day are the most significant dates on which to honour the ANZACS and other servicemen and women who have fought and died in service to their respective nations.
On these dates, when memorial services are held around the world, many modern pilgrims make journeys to attend commemorations held at battlefield sites.
Battlefield tours to, in this instance, World War I locations of special interest to Australians, are becoming increasingly popular despite the growing span of years that separates us from the actual events.
One of the remarkable aspects of these tours is their appeal to increasing numbers of young travellers who relish visiting the landscapes where their great grandfathers may have fought, and where pages of Australia's history of involvement in international affairs were written in blood.
Anyone who has been on a Battlefield Tour can probably vouch for the level of reverence shown for the late veterans on either side of the conflict, and in the case of Gallipoli (pictured above) and the Turks, respect for the former foe, now friend.
With the people of many of the small villages on the Western Front, there is shared camaraderie and a feeling of gratitude for the efforts the foreign troops undertook to push back the enemy from many towns and villages.
Pilgrimages to Gallipoli enjoyed a resurgence with the turn of the Millennium and don't look like stopping any time soon. The many scattered battlefields of what between 1914 and 1918 constituted the Western Front are also increasingly drawing visitors, looking for the headstones of relatives in the cemeteries or merely wanting to visit the places written large in the annals of Australia's involvement in World War I.
On ANZAC Day 2008 the media spotlight was focused not just on Anzac Cove, but also on the significant and costly battle of Villers-Bretonneux in France.
The Germans had taken the town as part of their push to Amiens, so an unusual night attack was launched to stop their advance. It was 24th April 1918 - the eve of the third anniversary of ANZAC Day. The British had worn down the Germans when the Australians waded into the attack and subsequently played a vital roll in halting the German advance.
It is at Villers-Bretonneux [pictured top right] that ANZAC Day services are held in France, and it is here that the remembrance of Australia's role on the European Front is best remembered and upheld by the local townsfolk.
ANZAC Day 2008 in Villers-Bretonneux saw the (temporary) re-erection of a battered timber cross transported to France for the occasion from Perth, WA where it is a fixture of the Soldiers' Memorial Chapel in St. George's Cathedral.
According to the official history of the Cathedral, the cross came from the Flanders battlefield where it was rescued from a burning church at Villers Bretonneux. It originally marked the common graves of Western Australian officers and men killed during the battle.
A new replica of the cross will become a permanent fixture at the site. The original is now back in the Cathedral in Perth and can be viewed there on the wall above the altar of the Soldiers' Memorial Chapel, which commemorates the Diggers of the 51st Battalion, many of who were from Western Australia.
If you're interested in joining a battlefield tour, one of the best sources is the Australian War Memorial in Canberra (pictured bottom right) which runs a Gallipoli battlefield tour and two Western Front tours, taking place in April - May around Anzac Day commemorative services.
For further information visit: www.awm.gov.au/services/battletour/index.asp
Many commercial tour companies also run ANZAC Day trips or include visits to the Gallipoli Peninsula in their programs. One such company is Tempo Holidays with whom Travelbeat toured in 2002. Tempo (originally Ya'lla Tours) is a member of AFTA and a founding member of the Council of Australian Tour Operators (CATO).
Tempo operates a number of tours in Turkey that include visits to Gallipoli, most of which have special ANZAC Day departures. For further information visit www.tempoholidays.com.
Resources:
John Laffin's Guide to Australian Battlefields of the Western Front 1916-1918, published by Kangaroo Press and the Australian War Memorial (AWM), is an excellent, though now somewhat dated, resource with details of the battles themselves as well as useful information for anyone planning to visit the many locations, cemeteries and memorials.
A Stout Pair of Boots: A Guide to Exploring Australia's Battlefields by Peter Stanley is a new reference book for studying and planning battlefield visits. Published by Allen & Unwin in December 2008 Stanley's experience and expertise covers Australia's overseas battle sites from conflicts ranging from Gallipoli to Long Tan (Vietnam).
Photo Sources:
1. Suvla Bay from Johnston's Jolly, Gallipoli [K & D Bowden]
2. Australian National Memorial, Villers Bretonneux [Department of Veterans Affairs/Office of Australian War Graves: www.dva.gov.au/OAWG/ ]
3. Australian War Memorial, Canberra [K Hennigan]
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