Travelbeat Editorial Review Bedouin Tea and History Wadi Rum, Jordan Story and photos by Kerry Hennigan Wadi Rum is a wonder of nature that sprawls out over the desert of southern Jordan; a landscape punctuated by fantastic sandstone formations, hidden springs, and towering peaks. Approaching the Wadi Rum Protected Area from either the Red Sea port of Aqaba in the south, or the Jordanian capital Amman in the north, you can see the landscape change dramatically the closer you get to the wadi. Wadi means valley, and the valley of Rum is a long, twisting, mountainous area of desert that has been home to Bedouin tribes for millennium - and to others before them. Human occupation here appears to have begun as early as 17,000 BC. Deep in the narrow fissure of Khazali canyon - a space just wide enough to squeeze through in single file, are the outlines of ancient graffiti incised into the rocks. The most enigmatic artwork belongs to the nomadic Thamud people who frequented the region and carved stylised images of themselves and animals on the rocks. The Thamud were cousins of the Nabateans, the ancient Arabic tribe who settled in Petra in the 4th century BC and grew prosperous controlling the trade routes linking the Arabian Peninsula to the Mediterranean. Wadi Rum also contains the remains of a Nabatean temple to the Goddess Allat dating to the 1st or 2nd centuries AD. This temple was itself built on the ruins of an earlier one belonging to the Aad Tribe. Rum Village is home to some of the Bedouin who live and work in the park. Others cling to their "houses of hair" i.e. large tents woven from goat, sheep or camel wool. These days Bedouin tents are likely to come complete with satellite TV antennas and other mod-cons no-one wants to be without. But even the village homes have yards for family animals, chickens, goats, a donkey, perhaps a horse or camel. While the camel is part of the Bedouin tradition, transport now is more likely to be by Toyota truck, which is how many visitors venture deeper into the wadi. Bedouin-run "jeep tours" visit many of Rum's geological and historical highlights - whether it be the Nabatean temple, a peaceful spring described by T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) in his book Seven Pillars of Wisdom, or Jebel Rum (Mt Rum) itself. Rum Village Rest House is a good place to catch up with fellow travellers inside the park. There are also some original carriages here from the Hejaz Railway attacked by Lawrence and the army of the Great Arab Revolt 1917-1918. Expert local knowledge is essential for touring the valley and its wonders, whether by jeep, horse, camel or on foot - along with a good, up-to-date guide book. The more you know about what you want to see, the better chance you have of seeing the real thing, rather than an easier-to-reach substitute. Lawrence's Spring is a case in point. The spring known by that name now is not the one actually visited and described by Lawrence (i.e. Ain Shalaaleh). Both springs have local names, and if you know the right name, you're more likely get where you really want to go. Generally you can expect nothing but warm hospitality from the Bedouin of Wadi Rum. At the end of a dusty ride you'll probably find a traditional tent set up to serve refreshments. The local herbal tea blends are highly recommended. These are drunk black, but can be sweetened to taste, and are very refreshing. Even if you're not staying overnight, a Bedouin tent is definitely a place that begs one to linger, to sit or lie back and enjoy the comforts of shade, cushions, and perhaps the company of a friendly cat or two - and more tea, inevitably. (It's impossible to have just one cup, it's so good!) Back at the Visitor Centre a restaurant provides reasonable fare. You pay for the location and the view, but especially if the weather is pleasant, you can enjoy the scenery while dining al fresco. A small museum charts the history of both the geology and human habitation of Wadi Rum, and an audio visual presentation provides a good introduction to the area. Probably the most memorable thing about Rum, apart from the Bedouin themselves, is the first and last thing you see when approaching or leaving the Visitor Centre - Jebel al-Mazmar. This striking, columned mountain has jaw-dropping impact on the visitor. The wonder merely increases as you approach or move around the distinctive peak. Visitors to Wadi Rum familiar with Lawrence's book called the mountain after the book's title i.e. the Seven Pillars of Wisdom (which actually comes from a passage in the Old Testament Book of Proverbs). Lawrence himself does not mention the mountain in his evocative descriptions of the valley. The name has stuck, because it aptly describes the peak, which is located in a part of Jordan with which Lawrence is always associated. Today people argue whether the mountain was named after the book or the book after the mountain, but all evidence points to the former. Lawrence isn't the only one to have fallen under the spell of Wadi Rum. Barely a visitor emerges from this land of sand, rocks and Bedouin unaffected by the experience. Thank goodness you can at least buy a pack of that delicious herbal tea and brew up a cup full of memories when you get home. For more information visit: www.wadirum.jo ___________________________________________________________________ References and recommended reading: · Experience Wadi Rum. Free brochure published by ASEZA and available from tour desks at some of the hotels in Aqaba. (The author's copy came from the InterContinental Aqaba, February 2009.) · Seven Pillars of Wisdom by T.E. Lawrence, Penguin Classics Edition 2000. Lawrence's book is a hard slog if you're not interested in the intricacies of British involvement in the Arab Revolt during the First World War. But it has indexes for both personnel and locations, to take you straight to some marvellous descriptive passages of people met and places frequented by Lawrence - including Wadi Rum. · The Rough Guide to Jordan, 3rd Edition 2006. The Rough Guide has some of the best historical information and site descriptions you could wish for in a guide book about Jordan. Always be aware of the publication date of any edition you use, and bear in mind that some things - especially opening times and prices - inevitably change with time. Back to Front Page