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Editorial Review



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LIGHTHOUSE HOPPING
On Kangaroo Island

Story and photos by Kerry Hennigan

There are people who factor in lighthouses when they plan their holiday itinerary. They love to visit lighthouses, photograph them, climb them and, in some cases, even stay in them.

Off the tip of South Australia's Fleurieu Peninsula lies Kangaroo Island, home to four significant lighthouses within relative close proximity.

First and most obvious to visitors arriving on the island by the Sealink Passenger & Vehicle Ferry from Cape Jervis to Penneshaw is the Cape Willoughby Lighthouse (below left)

The unpaved Willoughby Road leads to the appropriately wild, windswept and seemingly remote setting on the Dudley Peninsula for what was the first lighthouse to be built in South Australia.

Completed in 1852, Cape Willoughby Lighthouse is now part of the Cape Willoughby Conservation Park.

Here it's possible for visitors to take a guided tour to the top of the 27-metre tower for spectacular views (lower left) over the rugged coast and Backstairs Passage that separates Kangaroo Island from the mainland.

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For a gastronomic treat visit Dudley Wines near the lighthouse to enjoy an antipasto platter of local produce and a glass of wine or, a certain favourite, a bucket of prawns eaten on the deck overlooking the Pages Islands and Fleurieu Peninsula.

Through a telescope located within the Cape Willoughby museum it is also possible to spot the light on Cape St Albans at the northern tip of Moncrieff Bay.

St Albans (1908) was one of the first unattended lighthouses in the state. Initially a fixed light, it was changed to a flashing beacon once converted to acetylene gas. The St Albans light wasn't connected to mains power until 1976.

In 1858 Cape Willoughby was followed by another lighthouse built at Cape Borda at the opposite end of Kangaroo Island.

Reached by the unpaved western end of the Playford Highway, Cape Borda sits at the north-western tip of Kangaroo Island's famous Flinders Chase National Park.

Harveys Return, the original landing site for stores, is nearby, along with the historic lighthouse keepers' cemetery. There are guided tours of the lighthouse, and the 12.30 pm tour includes the firing of the restored Cape Borda signal cannon.

The most obvious thing about Cape Borda Lighthouse is its shape - square and squat rather than tall and round - making it unique amongst the island's lighthouses.

Also within Flinders Chase National Park is the Cape du Couedic lighthouse (top right) which opened in 1909. It is an impressive structure of traditional design, located close to another Kangaroo Island landmark, Admiral's Arch.

Today the remains of a jetty, water tank and storeroom can be seen at Weirs Cove (top left) at the base of the cliffs from where materials and supplies for the light were hauled to the top by a flying fox. Horses were used to pull the winch until they were replaced by a motor.

With the improvement of overland access in the 1940s the winch fell into disuse and became a part of Kangaroo Island history.

At Cape Willoughby, Cape Borda and Cape du Couedic, heritage accommodation is available in light keepers' cottages built in the early 20th century and beautifully restored. They are ideal for lighthouse lovers and those who just like to get away from the rat race in locations rich with history and close to nature.

The cottages are very much in demand, so advance bookings are essential.

For more information visit: www.tourkangarooisland.com.au
Kangaroo Island car and passenger ferry services are provided by Sealink: www.sealink.com.au


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