Travelbeat Editorial Review Apple Tea and History Café Pierre Loti and The Golden Horn Istanbul, Turkey Story and photos by Kerry Hennigan One of the three Istanbul guide books I'd stuffed in my luggage for our visit to this magnificent and ancient city devoted a section of text - complete with photographs - to the Café Pierre Loti. This historic spot takes its name from the writer who would sit here and pen his pieces - no doubt while sipping sweet apple tea and enjoying the view. Pierre Loti (1850-1923) frequented the cafe during his time as a naval officer living in the local neighbourhood of Eyüp. He wrote novels and travel narratives which gained him wide-spread fame. Even without the refreshments, the trip to this back neighbourhood of Istanbul is rewarding for the view over the Golden Horn. The Golden Horn is a gulf fed by two rivers, the Alibey and the Kagithane, which my guide book says were formally referred to as the "Sweet Waters of Europe". The name Golden Horn came about due to the many sumptuous pleasure palaces and villas built along its banks by wealthy Ottoman families. Its less grandiose Turkish name is Haliç, which means, simply, Channel. Here, at the tail end of this famous waterway, small mud islands covered in mats of grass and weeds poke through the surface until eventually the Horn peters out altogether. Immediately below the café there is something rather unusual for the unsuspecting visitor - a huge cemetery of neat headstones honouring the departed of those who in death occupy a plot with a stunning view. This is the Great Cemetery of Eyüp, described by that aforementioned guide book as " one of the most attractive and picturesque sites in all of Istanbul " Here the living stroll among the dead, whose impressive tombstones are sometimes crowned with turbans (for the men) and shawls (for the women). In the 15th century Fatih Mehment had a mosque and mausoleum built here after discovering what he believed to be the remains of Eyüp Ensari, companion and standard bearer of the Prophet Mohammed. Eyüp Ensari was killed in 670 in one of the many sieges Constantinople (Istanbul) has endured throughout its history. Mehment interred Eyüp's relics in the mausoleum he constructed, and successive Ottomans of importance also chose the location for their elaborate tombs. The cemetery path leads to the café, but out of respect for those whose loved ones lay beyond our al fresco vantage point, we decided not to go sightseeing amongst the graves. Besides, it was far too pleasant occupying a shady table on the terrace, and our apple teas would soon be on their way. We treated our guide Ahmed to a coffee so we could further ply him with questions about his favourite topic - the influence of Turkish (i.e. Ottoman) music on classical composers -specifically Mozart. The Café Pierre Loti wasn't on any of the day trip itineraries offered by the travel agency that employed Ahmed, but after exploring the Spice Bazaar, riding a ferry up the Bosphorus and clambering over Rumeli Castle in his company, we felt confident in asking him to deviate from the advertised itineraries. Loti would sit here smoking his narghile (water pipe) and enjoying the sunset, when the setting is reputed to be particularly romantic. Sadly we couldn't wait to find out if this was true, as many of Istanbul's other attractions awaited us. Besides, it's a good policy to always leave something for next time. Resources: · Knopf Guides: Istanbul, Turkey. Revised and updated edition 1998. This is the book referred to above. It is a treasure-trove of beautifully illustrated details that makes it an invaluable resource despite being so out-dated. · Lonely Planet: Istanbul City Guide (latest edition) is recommended as the most frequently up-dated guide book for visitors to the city. Back to Front Page