Travelbeat Editorial Review Waitangi: Place of Treaty North Island, New Zealand Story and photos by Kerry Hennigan Treaties can create as many problems as they solve. New Zealand's famous Treaty of Waitangi, signed on 6 February 1840, is no exception. According to the on-line source Wikipedia: "The Treaty established a British governor in New Zealand, recognised Maori ownership of their lands and other properties, and gave Maori the rights of British subjects." However, as the entry goes on to say, the English and Maori versions of the Treaty were significantly different "and there is no consensus as to exactly what was agreed." A rising tide of Maori unrest in the 20th century over perceived treaty violations eventually led to the Treaty of Waitangi Act in 1975 providing an avenue for Maori to lodge claims against Treaty violations. Today it's difficult to imagine a more serene spot than the Waitangi Treaty grounds overlooking the North Island's famous Bay of Islands. Located approximately four hours by road from Auckland, the historic site is adjacent to the picturesque holiday town of Paihia. To make the long drive worthwhile, plan on spending a night or two here, as it's a great base for exploring the greater Bay of Islands area. Our own visit was considerably rushed, in that, taking the drive north at a leisurely pace - made even more so by road work stoppages and slow-downs - we eventually arrived in Paihia in time for lunch. The obvious (and excellent) choice was the 35o Aquarium Restaurant & Bar, a former aquarium which still houses some of the local sea life and provides great views over the harbour. The Treaty Grounds are clearly visible from Paihia, and are a short drive from the centre of town. They preserve what is today an idyllic spot on a bluff above the Bay of Islands, with sweeping lawns running down to the sea. Admission is paid and entry gained through the Waitangi Visitors Centre, which also houses a gift shop and an audio visual show of the history of Waitangi and the Bay of Islands. If the timing is right you can catch a live cultural show and grab a photo opportunity with one or more of the Maori performers. Just don't be surprised if their fierce poses dissolve into laughter. The historic centrepiece of the Treaty Grounds is the white colonial house (pictured top) that belonged to the first British resident, James Busby and his family. Busby helped draft the treaty and had also drafted the Declaration of Independence of New Zealand in 1835. The treaty gathering took place under a large marquee on the lawn in front of the house. The spot is now marked by an imposing naval flagstaff. Adjacent to the house is a stunning fully-carved Maori meeting house: Te Whare Runanga (above left). Visitors are requested to take off their shoes when entering this masterpiece of timber construction which is representative of all regional tribes in New Zealand. Another not-to-be missed sight is the giant ceremonial war canoe, Ngatokimatawhaorua (below), one of the largest of its kind in existence. Ngatokimatawhaorua annually participates in Waitangi Day commemorations, requiring a crew of 76 paddlers to safely manage her. Other activities to take advantage of in neighbouring Paihia are various Bay of Islands cruise options, exciting jet boat rides, fishing charters, swimming with the local wild dolphins, scenic flights and coach tours to Cape Reinga at the very tip of the North Island. Or you can just explore the interesting towns around the Bay of Islands by rental car and try more of the local cuisine. But whatever you do, don't rush to Waitangi and back in the same day, as we did. Both the history and the scenery make lingering in the Bay of Islands well worth your while. For further information visit: www.waitangi.net.nz An extensive entry on the Treaty itself can be found at: www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treaty_of_Waitangi Back to Front Page