Travelbeat Editorial Review THE OTHER SAMOA The treasured isles of Robert Louis Stevenson Story and photos by Kerry Hennigan For some reason Samoa is often overlooked when Pacific Island holidays are being discussed. Yet these palm fringed, tropical isles are archetypal of the South Seas of romance and legend. Years ago members of the Travelbeat family visited American Samoa, sailing into what is surely one of the most dramatic and beautiful harbours in the world - the port of Pago Pago (pronounced Pango Pango) on the island of Tutuila. Sadly, over ensuing visits the attractions of Pago Pago were diminished by the deterioration of the port town, as rubbish accumulated in the creeks and old cars lay rusting in the dense undergrowth. While American Samoa has since made an effort to smarten up its image for visitors, the 'other Samoa' of Tales of the South Pacific fame has quietly remained a Polynesian paradise -described by Lonely Planet as the place you'd do your training if relaxation was an Olympic sport. Samoa (formerly the Independent State of Western Samoa) was where the US Navy was based during World War II. Immortalized by the stories of James A. Michener, and the subsequent Rogers & Hammerstein musical South Pacific, Samoa has held to its native heritage while developing infrastructure worthy of an international holiday destination, albeit one that runs on 'island time'. From Aggie Grey's Hotel & Bungalows, the 'most famous address' in the capital of Apia (population approx 40,000) to first class resorts on the coast of Upolu, and beach bungalows on the islands of Manono, Aleipata or unspoilt Savaii - independent Samoa offers much to entice anyone looking for a relaxing escape from the rat race. Whether you want to leap into the surf, paddle a kayak or sail a catamaran, hike in the mountains - or just laze away the day in the shade of a poolside umbrella, reading something in sync with your surroundings - Samoa is the perfect place to do it. At other times there are waterfalls to admire, coastal scenery to photograph, and the inevitable palm fringed beaches on which to leave your footprints. You even have the option of white or black sand (the latter bearing testimony to the islands' volcanic past). The Lapita, ancestors of today's Samoan Polynesians, probably reached the islands by way of Fiji or Tonga. The earliest known evidence of their presence as the first humans in Samoa (1000 BC) is the now submerged site of a Lapita village in a lagoon on Upolu. Elsewhere in the islands there are ancient platforms and on Savaii is the pyramid of Pulemelei, largest ancient site in the Pacific. Its origins remain a mystery. The arrivals of European explorers, whalers and itinerants, some of whom stayed and set themselves up as traders, encouraged the growth of coastal settlement by the Samoans. Missionaries inevitably followed, and their legacy is highly visible today in the hundreds of handsome churches that dot the towns and villages of the islands, representing the Congregational, Catholic, Methodist and Mormon branches of Christianity. There is also a significant Baha'i temple (b. 1984) located at Tiapapata in the highlands of Upolu. A short drive up-hill from Apia, the Baha'i Temple of the Pacific is one of only seven Baha'i temples in the world. It is a stunning piece of architecture, open for visitors to admire from close quarters. An information pavilion is situated adjacent to the temple in the spacious, landscaped grounds. But Samoa's greatest claim to fame is a writer who preceded Michener, and who built a home for himself that is now Upolu's best known tourist attraction. Scottish author Robert Louis Stevenson settled in Apia in 1890 and spent the final years of his life there. Subsequent occupants later considerably extended the house he built in the hills above Apia, at the foot of Mt. Vaea (where he and his wife Fanny are buried). In more recent times the house fell into disrepair, until rescued by an American benefactor who funded its restoration. Today, Robert Louis Stevenson's Vailima (pictured) is a museum, housing photos and mementos of the Stevenson family, and decorated as it would have been when Robert, Fanny and the family lived here. Almost as impressive are the extensive grounds. And if you're feeling really energetic, you can take the steep 35-40 minute walking trail up Mt. Vaea to visit the Stevenson graves and admire the view. After that you'll no doubt be happy to head back to your hotel and settle down to a cool drink on a chaise lounge in the shade, and ponder what island dish you'll feast on at the poolside restaurant tonight. That's about as energetic as you need to be in Samoa. For further information visit the official website: www.visitsamoa.ws Back to Front Page