Travelbeat
Editorial Review

THE ULTIMATE TRIBUTE
Australian War Memorial, Canberra, ACT
Story & Photos by Kerry Hennigan
A bullet-riddled dinghy from Gallipoli, masterpieces of war art, artillery pieces, evocative dioramas and life size models of Australian service men and women in uniform. Sound and light shows depicting a night bomber attack, the infiltration of Sydney Harbour by Japanese midget submarines, and the sinking of the Emden by HMAS Sydney.
Where else can one find all this, and more, absolutely free of charge except at the Australian War Memorial (below left) in the national capital of Canberra?
The centrepiece of this beautifully planned city, the Australian War Memorial (AWM) is first and foremost a memorial to Australians who have served in peace and war, and particularly those who have paid the ultimate sacrifice. Representative of this sacrifice is the tomb of the unknown Australian solider, located under the soaring dome of the Hall of Remembrance.
The dome is the most significant aspect of the AWM architecture, and is reminiscent of another, much older dome - that of Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Turkey. It is ironic, perhaps, that Istanbul, or Constantinople, as it was then more commonly known, was the objective of the allied invasion forces in the Dardenelles in 1915.
For the Allies and the defending Turks of the Ottoman Empire, it was to be an horrendous military campaign, but one that was to become an essential part of the cultural backbone of the young Australia and New Zealand, and of Turkey's emerging nationalism.
Names of Australia's fallen from that conflict, and the other battlefields of World War I fill an entire wall of the AWM (pictured below). World War II and other conflicts occupies its twin on the opposite side of the central reflecting pool.
Inside are the displays, with ample space devoted to both World Wars, Korea, Vietnam and UN peacekeeping operations. In fact, any area in which Australia has provided military assistance or expertise, is represented here. Every effort has been made to make sure no contribution has gone unacknowledged.
To ensure that visitors to the AWM make the most of their visit, red coated guides are strategically located all about the halls and courtyards, handing out program guides and dispensing advice and proffering suggestions.
Anything less than a day spent at the museum leaves much still to be explored and appreciated. Besides, there are two cafes to try - the Landing Place behind the sound and light show hall, and the Outpost on the lawns just east of the main AWM entrance.
And what an entrance it is - two stone lions, survivors of the Menin Gate, provide proud and imposing 'bookends' that lead out into the open air courtyard and reflecting pool, and guard the entrance to the many display halls. The first of these is the Orientation Hall, which is well worth a visit before plunging into the main exhibition rooms.
There is plenty of jaw-dropping stuff here including wall-sized masterworks of battlefield art by prominent Australian artists. Despite the many excellent war photographs on display, somehow the grand scope and minute details of the full colour oil paintings bring the horror and frenzy of battle more vividly to life.
The dioramas are 3D models of similar scenes - the Battle for Lone Pine being the most famous, those depicting various encounters on the Western Front being the bleakest. The Middle Eastern campaign provides images of mosques, desert dunes, diggers mounted on camels, and the charge of the Lighthorse at Beersheba (at left).
In the World War II display areas, nothing is more evocative than the dark, camouflaged life-size depiction of diggers on the Kokoda Track.
There are dramatically spotlighted artillery pieces, vehicles, and famous aircraft of the wars, with the most prominent being the bomber 'G for George' star of the sound and light show 'Strike by Night'.
Elsewhere in the WWII halls, a mock-up of a bomber's belly invites visitors to experience the aircraft in flight, with a floor screen depicting the opening of the bomb bay doors and showing the 'payload' being delivered on target.
If you come expecting to be awed and overwhelmed by the Australia War Museum, you won't be disappointed.
For detailed information visit. www.awm.gov.au
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