Travelbeat Editorial Review Tasmania's Celtic Landscape Along the Esk Highway to the East Coast Story and Photos by Kerry Hennigan Driving across the Break O'Day Plains of Tasmania you could be forgiven for thinking you're in Ireland. The hills are green; the towns are picturesque, with names like Fingal and St Marys. The fields are dotted with sheep that can occasionally be spotted standing atop hillocks that look remarkably like the burial mounds of Celtic chieftains! This bucolic landscape is reached from Launceston and Devonport in the north or Hobart in the south by way of the Midland Highway which bisects Australia's island state. A project of Governor Macquarie, evidence of convict-built stone constructions are still visible along the roadside of what was once the colony's major coach route. St Andrews Inn (1845) located beside the highway at Cleveland, with views towards Ben Lomond, is an excellent example of a colonial era hostelry updated as four-star heritage accommodation. Even if you're not planning on breaking your journey here, you can stop for a drink and a meal, pick up a brochure and talk to the host about maybe coming back to the roaring log fire, cozy sitting room and classic country cooking as a paying guest. The guestrooms are newly refurbished and the café and bar are open Tuesday to Sunday (meals available seven days a week for inhouse guests). Turning east onto the Esk Highway near Cleveland, the road to Fingal also leads to the turn-off to the White Knights, the last remaining stand of white eucalypts and native bush in an area that was previously heavily logged by timber cutters. The Evercreech Forest Reserve is a little off the beaten track, requiring a 32 km detour off the highway, and a bit of dirt road driving. But it's worth the time and trouble once you arrive. A walking trail encircles the hollow in which the Knights are situated, and is dotted with interpretative signs, many with hand-written eco-graffiti giving the 'real story' behind the official blurb. Admiring these towering gum trees from ground level fills the viewer with appreciation for the efforts of those that fought and, in this case, won the struggle to preserve this small remnant of forest. A further walking track climbs up and around the walls of the gulch that surrounds the Knights (at right). Let's say it's a good stretch for the hamstrings! Continuing on the main road eastwards once again, the lush winter green, dotted with farms and small towns, harkens back to another time and that other, Celtic land. The resemblances to the Old World are not accidental. Homesick settlers cleared, planted and pastured land in a manner that reflected their European origins. With the pasture mounds that resemble barrow graves, sentinel stones that look like remnants of megalithic monuments (aligned with the seasons and dedicated to gods of earth and weather) and a Clannad CD playing on the car stereo - the illusion is complete! There is a temptation to stop for a spot of treasuring hunting or archaeological fossicking. Except that these really are just natural features in a rural Australian landscape, albeit one that is decidedly emerald green in colour as well as atmosphere (especially when cloaked eerily in fingers of morning fog). Beyond Fingal lies St Marys (below) where wholefood pastries at the Purple Possum make a healthy and energizing snack. Sit by the little potbellied stove in the window seats and enjoy a hot drink, or browse the selection of sweets in the large number of jars on the shelves behind the counter. You're lucky if you can resist the urge to indulge in a bag of favourite treats! Finally the road climbs the mountains to Elephant's Pass, the gateway to Tasmania's East Coast. Stop at the justifiably famous Mt Elephant Pancakes on the pass to see if the pancakes and lightest of gourmet crepes really live up to their reputation. Chances are you'll want to come back for more - on the return journey, if not before. Finally the coast comes into sight, and soon you're driving beside pastures that appear to run clear down to the sea. The sheep here have a million dollar view. Past the evocatively named Chain of Lagoons lies Bicheno (pictured top), in winter a sleepy hideaway from the rest of the world (pop 700) which also makes an excellent base for exploring more of the natural and historic wonders of Tasmania's east coast. For information on self-drive tours of Tasmania visit the official Tourism Tasmania website at: www.discovertasmania.com.au Other sources: ˇ Tasmania (3rd and 4th editions) Lonely Planet ˇ The Visitors Guide Tasmania (publication and website) www.tasmaniavisitorsguide.com.au ˇ Gregory's Caravan and Camping (2005) Lloyd Junor, Universal Publishers Pty Ltd Back to Front Page