Travelbeat

Editorial Review


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Adelaide's Chinatown
Central Market Precinct, Adelaide
South Australia

Story and photo by Kerry Hennigan

Chinese communities in Australia have made considerable cultural and economic contributions to the nation since the first Chinese immigrant arrived in 1803. Not surprising then that most major cities in the country now have an area designated as Chinatown, usually centred on Chinese social and religious complexes or sites of historical significance.

In South Australia Chinese individuals heading for the Victorian goldfields arrived at Port Adelaide and Robe - until a change in government legislation restricted their numbers as had already happened in Victoria. Australia's xenophobic fears, particularly of non-Anglo influences, continued well into the 20th century, yet throughout this period Chinese immigrants continued to contribute to the settlement of the nation.

According to the Australian Heritage Commission, immigrants from China were involved in mining, agriculture, labour, cooking and housekeeping. There was hardly a major town or city that lacked a Chinese laundry, and Chinese furniture makers were much in evidence. The first in South Australia was a cabinet-maker who set up business at Port Adelaide in 1842.

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Even so, throughout the colonial years and period following Australian Federation (1901) Chinatowns were often considered less than desirable additions to the cities in which they evolved. Today, however, they are a magnet for tourists and locals looking for exotic imports and a variety of Asian cuisine.

Adelaide's relatively modern Chinatown is a compact area immediately adjacent to the city's Central Market, located between Gouger and Grote Streets on the Western side of Adelaide. With colourful Moonta Street (at left) as its focal point, restaurants and cafes, gift shops and Asian supermarkets radiate out into neighbouring streets and alleys.

The entrance gate to Moonta Street (pictured above) is flanked by two stone lions - guardians protecting the community against evil. Beyond this façade, oriental veranda roofs and bright red street lanterns create a colourful atmosphere that invites visitors to explore on foot or sit and soak up the atmosphere - preferably at one of the local cafes.

Food from all over Asia is available here: China, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, India, Vietnam, Korea and Japan. The options continue to grow inside the Market Plaza (open Mondays - Saturdays), a bustling bazaar that links Chinatown to the Central Market (Tuesdays, Thursdays - Saturdays).

Beyond the Market is the Market Arcade (Mondays - Saturdays) with its shops, services and activities reflecting the many cultures that make the Central Market Precinct such a thriving part of Adelaide.

Parking for this busy part of the city is simplified by the Central Market car park, which is open even on days when the market itself is closed.

Chinatown's development as an integral part of the Central Market Precinct honours the contribution made by the Asian market gardeners of South Australia. Here, where the restaurants, supermarket and Food Court remain open for business on Sundays, visitors can enjoy a meal and a leisurely stroll around an historic part of the city.

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The streets and alleys adjacent to Chinatown contain further delights, such as Italian and Indian restaurants, an Indian supermarket and a Buddhist centre for yoga classes and other holistic therapies. Called The Centre OM (at right) it also boasts its own Bliss Café and a clothing boutique.

These "back streets" of Adelaide feature a fascinating blend of architecture that includes Federation style cottages and shops, brick warehouses and modern high-rise apartments rubbing shoulders with each other. The resulting streetscapes are likely to keep any keen shutterbug happy.

Chinatown and the Central Market Precinct in general comprise one of Adelaide's tourism gems, and reflect the eclectic mix of its residents' cultural origins. As such, it is a place, and an ideology, that should be celebrated - and enjoyed!

A brochure of the Central Market Precinct, including Chinatown, is available as a PDF on: www.adelaidecitycouncil.com/CentralMarket/history.htm

For general tourism information on Adelaide and South Australia visit:
www.southaustralia.com



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