Travelbeat Editorial Review Castles and Conquests Istanbul, Turkey Story and photos by Kerry Hennigan Since its origins as a Greek settlement, Istanbul has borne witness to the passage of three mighty empires - Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman. All have left their mark on the city in terms of its cultural melting pot and the material legacy of its historic mosques, churches and fortresses. In the shadow of the giant spans of the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge over the Bosphorus, is one such impressive remnant of Istanbul's Ottoman past - the fortress of Rumeli (Rumeli Hisari) or the European Fortress (pictured above). Built in 1452 by Sultan Mehmet II (a.k.a. Mehmet the Conqueror) it is considered a beautiful example of military architecture. Constructed in a period of just four months, before he conquered the city proper, Mehmet encouraged friendly competition amongst his crews by allocating the building of the three towers of the fortress to his three viziers, while Mehmet himself oversaw the walls and bastions. Open to the public, Rumeli Hisari contains a small museum within its walls, and an amphitheatre on the site of its ruined mosque, the latter marked by the base of its minaret (at left). Apart from the impressive architecture, Rumeli's attraction is the view from its walls and towers, which are accessible by open staircase - however, the climb is not recommended for those who suffer vertigo. Facing Rumeli on Istanbul's Asian shore is the earlier Anatolian Fortress (below right) built by order of Sultan Bayezit I in 1391. Also known as the Guzelce fortress, it is smaller than Rumeli and not open to visitors. Constructed during the siege of Istanbul Strait, the fortress was meant to ensure safe passage from the Anatolian to the European side of the Bosphorus. In a city noted more for its glorious mosques with their decorative domes and soaring minarets, these fortresses are a reminder of the past eras when different nations and ideologies fought for control of the Bosphorus and the hearts, minds and souls of the people living along and beyond it. In fact, the entire old city of Istanbul, formerly Constantinople (the city of Constantine the Great, who reigned 324-337) and capital of the Empire of Byzantium, once boasted walls that repelled all invaders - including Attila the Hun. They were eventually breached first by Crusaders from the West (1204) and finally the Ottomans under Mehmet II (1453). Built under Constantine, the walls were later strengthened by the Byzantine Emperor Theodosius II (408-450), and are now known as the Theodosian walls. The sections that remain were those left by the Ottomans when they took the city. The city wall itself (a portion of which is pictured below) is 5,632 meters long and extends from the Sea of Marmara to the Golden Horn. Declared by UNESCO as one of the cultural heritages of the world, parts of the wall have been extensively restored. After the city fell on 29 May 1453, the Ottomans surrounded the portion containing the Golden Gate (Porta Aurea) with a new fortress called Yedikule - the Castle of Seven Towers. Today both the Byzantine walls and the fortress, (now a museum), are open to the public. But one does not need to visit the old city outskirts to view the material remains of successive empires in a single location. In the heart of the old Sultanahmet district of Istanbul, in the shadow of Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, there is ample evidence of each conquest. Dining in a tavern facing the Hippodrome (the old Byzantine race track), one can be sitting beside courtyard walls that reveal the passage of empires in layers - like geological strata. The overpowering presence of the past is one of the things that makes Istanbul such a great city for the traveller. For those who love it, Istanbul remains, as in its days as the capital of empires, the city at the centre of the world. _______________________ For more information on Istanbul and travel in Turkey visit: www.tourismturkey.org An excellent source on information on the city, its history and culture is: www.exploreistanbul.com Resources: · Istanbul, Knopf Guides (1993). This is simply the most beautiful, illustrated guide book available on Istanbul. · Eyewitness Travel Guides: Istanbul (Revised Edition, 2003), Dorling Kindersley. Almost as beautiful as the Knopf Guide above, but more up-to-date. · Istanbul, 4th Edition (2005), Lonely Planet. The most up-to-date Istanbul guide currently available, with the broadest range of useful information and background material for the visitor. Back to Front Page